CameraRec » comparison

Canon HS 100, 300, 310, 500, 510 – What the heck is the difference?

toby — Sat, 26 Nov 2011 13:37:05 +0000

These two cameras look very similar and have very similar specs, so which should you buy? Both offer 12MP and are almost exactly the same in every respect except -

Canon Elph 100 HS	Canon Elph 300 HS	Canon Elph 310 HS

Screen Size 3″, 4x zoom(28-112mm), Mono audio recording	Screen Size 2.7″, 5x zoom(24-120mm), Stereo audio recording	Screen Size 3″, 8x zoom(28-224mm), Stereo
Buy from Amazon $129	Buy from Amazon $149	Buy from Amazon $199

Yep – those three specs, screen size, focal length range and audio recording during video are the only noticeable differences. Which one is best for you? There is actually one more subtle difference, the 3″ screen on the 310 is higher resolution at 416K, twice that of the 100 and 300. Maybe not as a big a difference as 2x the resolution sounds but certainly worth mentioning. My Pick is the HS300, in the way that most ultra compacts get used, having the slightly wider lens start at 24mm is more important than a bit more zoom. Image quality wise all three cameras are going to give you virtually identical results. Note that thee 100 HS looks a tad smaller, it’s not- these images are not to scale. The 310 series does come in a variety of colors, the 100 and 300 stick to black, silver and red. A great soft case these is the Case Logic TBC-302 I also recommend a spare battery and of course an SD Card 8GB is fine

Canon Elph 500 HS Canon Elph 510 HS

Screen Size 3.2″ Touch Screen, 4.4x zoom (24-105mm), Stereo Audio Screen Size 3.2″ Touch Screen , 12x zoom(28-336mm), Stereo audio recording

Buy from Amazon $199 Buy from Amazon $299

The big difference between the 500 series and the 300 series is the larger touch screen. The back of these cameras is domniated by the screen and the touch functionality replacing several physical buttons. The difference between the 500 and the 510 is the Zoom, with the 510 offering a fairly serious 12x zoom in what is still considered a compact and almost ultracompact body. Image quaity between all five of these cameras is going to be virtually identical- they use the same sensor and processor.

Canon Elph 300 HS Back Canon Elph 500 HS Back

No Touch screen Touch Screen

As Always find me on twitter or Facebook if you have any questions.

Canon HS 100 vs Canon HS 300

toby — Thu, 02 Jun 2011 13:54:21 +0000

These two cameras look very similar and have very similar specs, so which should you buy? Both offer 12MP and are almost exactly the same in every respect except -

Canon Elph 100 HS	Canon Elph 300 HS

Screen Size 3″, 4x zoom(28-112mm), Mono audio recording	Screen Size 2.7″, 5x zoom(24-120mm), Stereo audio recording
Buy from Amazon	Buy from Amazon

Yep – those three specs, screen size, focal length range and audio recording during video are the only noticeable differences. Which one is best for you? Currently the 300 HS is selling at $149 and the 100 HS is selling for $129, depending on the color you pick. For $20 more bucks you get those extra features of the 300 and the stereo audio alone is worth it! Note that these two cameras are nearly identical in size – the images above are not to scale and make the 100 HS look a bit smaller than the 300. In Reality both of these cameras are in the ultracompact P&S category and are quite small. A great soft case for either is the Case Logic TBC-302 I also recommend a spare battery and of course an SD Card 8GB is fine As Always find me on twitter or Facebook if you have any questions.

Which DSLR should I buy [May 2011]

toby — Mon, 25 Apr 2011 19:56:40 +0000

Everytime I revisit this post I have a harder time recomending one model/brand over another – at this point all of the cameras on this list are excellent and will produce superb images under normal conditions. It is important that you read over the pros and cons of each and decide what is right for you. I encourage you to ask questions via twitter(@camerarec), leaving a comment or using the chat window to the right. I am here to help and guide you toward the best camera for YOU! Prices can and do fluctuate a good bit. If your budget is very tight check with me, I am happy to try and hunt down a deal or make alternate recommendations based on your needs. Keeping it short and sweet. . . The very short & sweet guide: My Recs [<$500 = Buy a used XSi, Budget($650) = Nikon D3100, $800-$1000 = Canon T3i, $1000-$1500 = Nikon D7000, Above $1500 = Canon 7D] Slightly longer guide:

Budget (~ $600)

Best of the bunch: Nikon D3100 Buy a Nikon D3100 14MP, 1080P video @ 24 FPS, very user friendly with guide mode, full time auto focus in video mode*, Good low light performance at this price point (~$650) Cheaper but without video functions- Buy a used Canon XSi 10 MP megapixels, Live View, 3″ LCD with 230K resolution (~$400) *The Autofocus used during video is slow and somewhat noisy, meaning the on camera mic will record the sound of the camera focusing. If you want to capture your child in a play or a predictable sporting event the AF is fine. If you are trying to capture someone or something moving in unpredictable patterns you may find yourself frustrated as the AF “hunts” for focus lock. If you are planning on doing more serious video you should consider the Canon T3i(below) and learn to manual focus. Another benefit of the T3i and D5100 is the addition of a mic port, letting you connect an external microphone and getting much better audio quality. $700 – $1000 Best of the bunch: Canon T3i (But . . .)


Canon T3i (600D)	Nikon D5100	Panasonic GH2
18MP – Auto, 100, 200, 400, 800, 1600, 3200, 6400, (12800 with boost) ISO	16MP – Auto, 100- 6400 (plus 12800, 25600 with boost) ISO	16MP – Auto, Intelligent ISO, 160, 200, 400, 800, 1600, 3200, 6400, 12800 ISO
Video: 1920 x 1080 (30, 25, 24 fps), 1280 x 720 (60, 50 fps), 640 x 480 (60, 50 fps)	1920 x 1080 (30, 25, 24 fps), 1280 x 720 (30, 25, 24 fps), 640 x 424 (30, 25 fps)	1920 x 1080 (24, 60fps) 1280 x 720 (30 fps), 848 x 480 (30 fps), 640 x 480 (30fps), 320 x 240 (30fps)
LCD: Articulated 3″ 1,040,000 dots	Articulated 3″ 921,000 dots	Articulated 3″ 460,000 dots

The T3i builds on a very succesful and popular T2i that feels like it was released just yesterday. The obvious change is the articulaed LCD screen, a gorgeous 1 million dot articulating LCD appeals to both the photographer reviewing their shots, you can really tell if the focus is sharp and the videographer that wants to shoot at odd angles. Inside the camera is using the same sensor as the 7D, performance and quality is excellent though at low light the D5100 outperforms. An internal change from the T2i is the ability to wireleslsy control multiple flashes (or just one) giving the budding photographer a great way to get creative lighting shots without resorting to expensive radio triggers. Final note the ergonomics have been tweaked and getting excellent reviews from both a how it feels when you hold it and ease of adjustments. Bottom line – Lots of features are packed into this camera that provides the beginner photographer/videographer plenty of room to grow.	Shares a sensor with the excellent D7000 so you know you will get excellent still images and at this price point superb low light performance though the difference isn’t THAT great when compared against the T3i. Video performance is capable if you are serious about video the additional frame rates of the T3i provide greater flexibility in shooting. Some complaints about the redesign layout, not as friendly, especially when adjusting settings in manual mode as the T3i. Camera also lacks an inbody focus motor, this means some lenses will not AF on the camera, though as I write this Nikon is announcing a 50mm f/1.8 that makes this less of an issue. Bottom line – There is lots of camera to love here but if you are serious about photography the T3i gives you more room to grow, and if you’re not serious about photography you should consider the D3100 and save a few dollars.	The GH2 is not a true DSLR, no mirror that directs what the lens sees to the viewfinder. And the sensor is a smaller 4/3 sensor, smaller than the APS-C size of the T3i and the D5100. Smaller sensor usually means poor low light performance but the GH2 is really impressive and in a smaller body you get performance nearly on par with the two other cameras in this class especially up to ISO 3200. Where the GH2 really shines is in video control and performance. Bottom line – Fantastic controls, features and options make this an excellent video machine that also happens to take solid still photos and all in a slightly smaller package. You do pay for this performance in a smaller package.
Wireless flash control, Auto focus capabilities with cheap 50mm prime lens, 60,50 fps at 720, very good build and button placement, video clip mode (stiches multiple short video clips into one longer video), video zoom 3x-10x	Beginner friendly, full time autofocus during video*see note about D3100 above, better lowlight performance, built in HDR	Micro 4/3 camera (means smaller sensor and no mirror) uses an electronic viewfinder and touch screen LCD for controls. 60fps at 1080p and excellent autofocus with built in stereo mic.
Canon EOS Rebel T3i	Nikon D5100	Panasonic Lumix DMC-GH2

$1000 – $1500

Best of the bunch: Nikon D7000 Buy a Nikon D7000 ($1499 w/ 18-105 lens) 16MP, Excellent low-light performance, HD video, 920k LCD , 100% viewfinder, built in wireless flash capabilities, dual SD card slots Buy a Canon 60D ($1399 w/ 18-135 lens) Same sensor as t2i and 7D = same image and video options/quality. What sets 60D apart is articulating LCD, manual audio controls for shooting video and a build that is still plastic and similar to the rebel line but w/ top LCD and a more solid(good) feel.

> $1500

Canon’s 7D 18MP, 100% viewfinder, Dual DIGIC 4 and new AutoFocus are great. Stellar HD video. Excellent build quality (weather sealed & ergonomics). More here (~$1499) Buy a D300s12MP w/ 18-200mm VR II Lens – Not full frame but excellent quality, low-light performance and video in a much more affordable package (~$2500 w/ very nice 18-200 lens) (~$1800 body only) > $2500 Buy a 5D Mark II 21.1MP Full Frame 24-105mm f/4 L IS USM Lens – Gorgeous giant images and jaw dropping HD video (~$3000) If you buy a Canon take a moment to look at my recommended lens list. This list covers the basics, if you are considering any of these cameras find me on twitter(@camerarec) and let’s talk about which is best for you

Olympus XZ-1, King of Point and Shoot Cameras?

toby — Sun, 03 Apr 2011 16:06:24 +0000

Canon’s S90 and more recently the S95 have held the title of king of P&S cameras in my book for the last 18 months – they are excellent cameras w/ larger than average sensors, a fast lens and excellent control scheme that includes a lens ring that controls several different features. The XZ-1 offers all of that with a faster lens, hot shoe/accessory port in a slightly larger package, still smaller than Canon’s G12. Image quality is excellent and looks to be slightly better than the S95 in the lower ISO numbers and just slightly worse in the higher ISOs but I want to stress that these differences are very slight and both cameras take excellent images that you are hard pressed to tell any difference in your average day to day use. Additionally the XZ-1 has a faster lens, f/1.8 at the widest and f/2.5 at full zoom. This means two things – you can actually control depth of field some, something that previously was really only an option in more expensive DSLRs and you can shoot at lower ISOs and still get bright images. These benefits come at a cost, the XZ-1 is about $100 more than the S95 currently and is a slightly larger camera.

	Canon S95	Olympus XZ-1

MP	10MP	10MP
Sensor Size	1/1.7″	1/1.63″
LCD	3″ 461,000 dots	3″ OLED 614,000 dots
Max Aperture	f2.0 – f4.9	f1.8 – f2.5
Lens Focal Length	28-105mm	28-122mm
Hot shoe/External Flash	No	Yes
Built-in Flash	6.5m range	8.6m range
Continuous drive	0.9 fps	2fps
Weight (inc batteries)	195g	275g
Dimensions	3.94 x 2.28 x 1.18″	4.37 x 2.56 x 1.65″
Buy

Bottom line: Both cameras are excellent, the S95 offers a pocket fitting form factor. The Olympus gives you a faster lens, very bright OLED screen and the option to add an external flash. At $599 though you are approaching the cost of the increasingly popular 4/3 cameras like Olympus’ own PEN E-PL2 – even better quality, very friendly manual controls and the ability to switch lenses. This puts the XZ-1 in an awkard position, it certainly is an excellent camera but until the price drops I continue to give the S95 my nod, though it is a slight nod. As always find me on twitter @camerarec for my latest thoughts. Canon PowerShot S95 10 MP Digital Camera with 3.8x Wide Angle Optical Image Stabilized Zoom and 3.0-Inch inch LCD Olympus XZ-1 10 MP Digital Camera with f1.8 Lens and 3-Inch OLED Monitor (Black)

Canon T3i vs T2i vs 60D

toby — Sun, 20 Feb 2011 16:09:09 +0000

Subtitle of this post – making sense of these three very similar cameras Canon T2i (550D) Price: Body only $657 | Kit w/ 18-55 lens $769 General Stats – Released 2/2010, 18MP, 3″ 1 million dot LCD, 1080p video

Excellent camera that wowed the tech world with true HD video at the 899 price point. Features multiple frame rates at 1080 and 720 Canon T3i (600D) Price: Body only $799 | Kit w/ 18-55 lens $899 General Stats – Released 2/2011(shipping mid march), 18MP, 3″ 1 million dot articulating LCD, 1080p video

Differences from T2i – Articulating LCD, more beginner friendly with Basic+ mode, more intelligent scene mode, wireless flash control, updated kit lens(cosmetically upgraded), video snapshot mode(stiches short video clips together into one movie in camera), 3-10x video zoom. If you are going to be using this as a video camera the articulating LCD is a nice upgrade from the T2i. As a photo camera the addition of wireless flash control gives this beginner friendly camera loads of room to grow making it a VERY attractive buy. The range of photographers that the T2i appealed to was quite broad, the T3i takes that range and spreads it at both ends w/o sacrificing anything in the middle. And Canon has slightly improved the grip and button responsiveness, early reviews are very positive. Canon 60D Price: Body only $888 | Kit w/ 18-135 lens $1099 General Stats – Released 8/1010, 18MP, 3″ 1 million dot articulating LCD, 1080p video

Differences from T2i/T3i are mostly in build and handling. The camera is larger, has a top LCD and rear dial and the mode dial has a lock, avoiding accidental mode changes. Internally the 60D offers slightly faster FPS(5.3 vs 3.7) for still shots, viewfinder is a touch brighter (pentaprism type vs pentamirror of T2i/T3i) and in body RAW conversion to JPEG. I see little reason to choose the 60D over the T3i. If you are going to be seriously shooting sports you might consider the 60D with the slightly faster FPS but if you are serious about it you should consider the Canon 7D. The additional rear dial and top LCD are nice, and make the camera easier to control, that along with the slightly larger build may make this more comfortable for those with larger hands but this is a fairly narrow market. Back of all three cameras


T2i/550D	T3i/600D	60D

Bottom Line – T3i looks to be excellent, taking everything that was loved about the T2i and adding some nice features. If you are on a tight budget and want to use a DSLR primarily as a video camera consider the T2i. If you are on a tight budget and primarily interested in still the Nikon D3100 offers plenty for less (comparison coming soon).

Popular DSLRs Compared T2i, T3i, T3, D3100, GH2

toby — Tue, 08 Feb 2011 01:48:44 +0000

Entry to mid level DSLRs

Canon T2i vs Canon T3i vs Canon T3 vs Nikon D3100 vs Panasonic GH2

	Canon T2i(550D)	Canon T3i(600D)	Canon T3(1100D)	Nikon D3100	Panasonic GH2
Quick Thoughts	Serious entry level camera w/ room to grow	Serious entry level camera w/ articulated LCD and even more room to grow	Budget friendly 720p shooting DSLR	Budget friendly DSLR w/ solid video options including AF while filming*	Micro 4/3 dslr with some serious video features allowing for smooth AF while filming
MP	18	18	12	14	16
ISO range	Auto – 6400 (12800)	Auto – 6400 (12800)	Auto – 3200 (12800)	Auto – 12800	Auto – 12800
Continuous Drive (fps)	3.7	3.7	3	3	3
Max Burst	JPEG: 34 RAW: 6	JPEG: 34 RAW: 6	JPEG:830 RAW: 5	JPEG: 100 RAW: 13	JPEG: unlimited RAW: 7
LCD Screen	3″ 1,040,000 dots	Articulating 3″ 1,040,000 dots	2.7″ 230,000 dots	3″ 230,00 dots	Articulating 3″ 460,00 dots w/ touch sensitivity
Viewfinder	Pentamirror 95% coverage	Pentamirror 95% coverage	Pentamirror 95% coverage	Pentamirror 95% coverage	Electronic 100% coverage
Movie Mode	1080p 30/25/24 fps 720 60/50 fps 640 60/50 fps	1080p 24fps 720 30/25/24 640 x 424 24	720 30/25/24	1080p 24fps 720p 30/25/24 424p 24	1080p 60/24 fps 720 60/50 fps 480 60/50 fps
Max Recording Limit	30 mins	30 mins	?	10 Minutes	No limit/70mins
Ext Mic Jack	Yes	Yes	No	No	Yes
IS	In Lens	In Lens	In Lens	In Lens	In Lens
Battery Life	470 shots	440 shots	700 shots	550 shots	340 shots
Weight	530g	570g	495g	505g	394g
COST (body only)	$687	$799	~	$499	~
Cost (Kit lens)	$849	$899	$599	$577	$999

*constant AF while filming is not spectacular. Of the cameras compared above the GH2 has the best AF while filming. A full write up comparing these cameras and more is in the works. If you have any questions about these or any other camera find me on twitter @camerarec

Which DSLR should I buy [October 2010]

toby — Fri, 01 Oct 2010 23:12:13 +0000

Short & sweet overview of the popular DSLRS and which might be best for you . Some of these recommendations are based on prices that fluctuate daily, check in with me @camerarec to get my absolute latest recommendations. All prices in US dollars. UPDATE (11/27)- T2i price has dropped plus a bundled lens deal makes the T2i VERY appealing – Link for bundle and extras The very short & sweet guide- My Recs [<$500 = Canon XS/1000D, Budget($600) = Nikon D3100, $800-$1000 = Canon T2i, $1000-$1500 = Nikon D7000, Above $1500 = 7D] Slightly longer guide-

Budget (< $600)

Best of the bunch: Nikon D3100 Buy a Nikon D3100 14MP, 1080P video @ 24 FPS, very user friendly with guide mode and full time auto focus in video mode, Very high ISO = good low light performance (~$700) Cheaper but without video functions Buy a Canon XS/1000D – 10 MP megapixels, Live View, 3″ LCD with 230K resolution (~$450) One benefit to buying the XS (or any of canon’s DSLRS)- you can autofocus with a cheap but good lens like the 50mm f/1.8 (~$90)which gives you nice lower light performance and depth of field control, an excellent lens to learn photography with. If you buy the D3100 the cheapest lens that will give you the same ability/control is several hundred dollars more. It might not ever matter to you, you may be happy using the lens that camera comes with, and there are plenty of other lenses that will work with the D3100, but you should be aware. Feel free to ask me follow up questions on this, it can be confusing and intimidating trying to figure out what lens will do what for you. Do you need to go cheaper than $450? Look for USED Canon XSi or Nikon D40 – These are still fine cameras and have all the features you need to learn photography. Prices are anywhere from $350 – $450. NOTE: More about which lenses will Autofocus with the entry level nikons – if you buy a D40/D60/D3000/D3100/D5000 you need to look at my list of compatible(will auto-focus) lenses Some of the cheaper lenses will not autofocus on this camera and for some that is a reason to buy the XS.

$700 – $1000

Best of the bunch: Canon’s T2i ($699 Deal until Jan 8th) Buy a Canon T2i, Offers excellent HD video (multiple FPS @ 1080p and less), 3″ 1,040k LCD(gorgeous resolution & perfect, 3:2 aspect ratio), 18MP with good low-light performance (~$899) Buy a Canon T1i – if video is less important to you and you are on a tight budget – 15MP camera with decent HD Video, 3″ 920k LCD, (~$720) Buy a Nikon D90 Gives you a bigger body, brighter viewfinder and excellent low-light performance, HD video(720p limited to 5 min clips), 3″ 920k LCD & viewfinder along w/ built in wireless flash capabilities at just about $1000 – The D90 body is now $856 and Nikon has stated that it will be discontinued at the end of the year so I expect this price to go up as it gets harder to find and 3rd party schmucks jack up the price. D90 compared to the T2i: T2i shoots significantly better video(less jello effect, full 1080p with variable frame rates), higher resolution LCD, 18MP vs 12MP. D90 advantages are size and build quality(magnesium body vs plastic build T2i), viewfinder is bigger/brighter, built-in wireless flash control and a kit lens with more range 18-105 vs 18-55 with T2i.

$1000 – $1500

Best of the bunch: Undecided- need hear more field reports from the use of the D7000 Buy a Nikon D7000 ($1499 w/ 18-105 lens) shipping mid-October 16MP, Excellent low-light performance, HD video, 920k LCD , 100% viewfinder, built in wireless flash capabilities, dual SD card slots Buy a Canon 60D ($1399 w/ 18-135 lens) Same sensor as t2i and 7D = same image and video options/quality. What sets 60D apart is articulating LCD, manual audio controls for shooting video and a build that is still plastic and similar to the rebel line but w/ top LCD and a more solid(good) feel.

> $1500

Shooting Video with DSLRS is hard

toby — Mon, 20 Sep 2010 14:07:24 +0000

I am writing this post as a caution to point and shoot users who are accustomed to easy to use video mode on their little cameras and who are thinking about moving up to a DSLR and using that DSLR to take video. This cautionary tale is especially important if the video they plan on taking is of fast moving, unpredictable subjects, like kids! Let’s start by talking about using a point and shoot for taking video, this is after all, where most users are coming from. Recent point and shoot cameras make it easy to shoot decent video. Switch the dial to video and press a button to focus and start recording. Recent P&S cameras do continuous auto focus (AF) during the filming and because of the small sensor size usually have a large depth of field, meaning most of the scene is in focus. The lens in P&S cameras is so small it takes small and quiet movements to refocus- these often happen so quickly you don’t even realize the camera is doing any work. On the audio side recent high end P&S have offered stereo mics for decent sound but many P&S are still mono audio. Let’s recap – you whip out your P&S, press the shutter button and start recording, the outcome is usually a movie that is in focus even if your subject is running zig-zags across the living room. Shooting video with DSLRS is very different. The design and processing power of a DSLR means they are much faster to focus when they take photos. The problem is that the design requires the mirror to be down to use that fast focusing, but for video recording the mirror needs to be up so the camera switches to a different type of AF which is a good deal slower. Also the lens on a DSLR is large and requires potentially large movements to focus from near to infinity. Those movements are mechanical which means slower and with some lenses, especially the kit lens, noisy as it rotates to focus. Another challenge when shooting video with a DSLR is the potential of shallow depth of field which can make for beautiful video and or make it a serious challenge keeping a moving subject in focus. So you have two choices when it comes to focusing when using a DSLR- manual focus during the video or press the shutter button halfway to force the camera to refocus. But wait, there is now a third option, the new Nikon D3100 and the just announced D7000 are capable of constant AF during video, like a P&S camera, so you do not need to press the focus button button as you do in the rest of the DSLRs that currently shoot video. But the AF is still slow, it just does it for you automatically, continuously and in an unhelpful manner likely to accidentally focus on something other than your subject if you are moving or panning the camera. Example with the new Nikon D3100, constant AF on- - you can see that sometimes it jumps and occasionally you can hear it autofocus. At this point you might wonder why does anyone bother? Yes, it takes more work but the payoff is very high quality videos, higher quality low-light videos, very shallow depth of field and the ability to switch lenses for a totally different look to name a few. Those benefits to shooting video w/ a DSLR should look very similar to the benefits you get from shooting stills with a DSLR. Just like picking up a DSLR doesn’t make you a photographer, picking up a DSLR with video capabilities doesn’t make you a videographer. A couple of quick tips that will improve your videos 1. Use a tripod Manfrotto 785 Video Grip If your lens has stabilization turn it off when on the tripod 2. Use the manual settings – Aperture around f/5.6 and shutter speed double your frame rate 3. Aperture of f/5.6 to f/8 will give you decent depth of field, requiring less refocusing during the shot 3. Manually focus and leave the lens on manual (this will take some practice) but eventually you will be able to keep a moving subject in focus smoothly and without errors. 4. If you are serious about the audio quality use an external mic like Sennheiser MKE 400 or Rode VideoMic If your DSLR does not have an external mic port (D3000, D3100, D5000) you can pickup Zoom H4n Portable Digital Recorder Some folks prefer this even with an external mic jack because it gives them more control over the audio. 5. Practice Finally – Take a few moments to watch this Tongue and Cheek DSLR Video. . ah um Video This post wasn’t meant to scare anyone, rather to make folks aware of the differences and what they can do to start down the path of beautiful HD video from their new DSLR. I have a run down of the current video capable DSLRS Find me on twitter @camerarec to ask any questions about this post or anything else digital camera / digital video related.

D3100 vs D5000 vs T2i vs 60D vs D7000 vs 7D

toby — Sat, 28 Aug 2010 15:31:51 +0000

Ok so the title is a little misleading, this is more a quick summary post that gives a few choices specs on each with a sentence or two of my thoughts. Note: I originally included the MegaPixels of each camera but really don’t want anyone focusing on that number, ALL of these cameras are capable of producing excellent images and images that can easily be printed at very large sizes.

Nikon D3100 – Recently announced – Available mid-September for $699

ISO 100-3200 & 12800
1080p 24fps, 720p 30/25/24 fps, 424p 24 fps
11 point AF
3 fps
3″ 230k pixel LCD
Friendly guide mode

Nikon’s brand new entry level camera offers a very friendly guide mode and continuous Auto Focus during video, the first DSLR to do so. The LCD screen is 3″ but only 230K, significantly less than T2i and higher Canons. Nikon’s entry level models do not have in-body focus motors and so will not focus with some of the cheaper nikon lenes. I can’t decide if I make a bigger deal about this than necessary but it would bother me that I couldn’t AF with nikons very good but cheap 50mm and a few other lenses. This camera is for someone just moving to the DSLR world and doesn’t have dreams of becoming a professional photographer. | Buy from Amazon

Nikon D5000 – 18 Months old – $699

ISO 100-3200 & 6400
720p 24 fps
11 point AF
4 fps
2.7″ 230k pixel Articulated LCD

I no longer see a reason to buy this camera unless you REALLY love the articulated lens. The D3100 is a better camera on paper and when the reviews come in I will update this post. This isn’t to say it is a bad camera, it is fine and if you can find a used one at a good price go for it! Buy it used if you love the idea of the articulated lens and have a tight budget. | Buy from Amazon

Canon T2i/550D – 6 Months old – $899

ISO 100-6400 & 12800
1080p 30/25/24 fps, 720p 60/50 fps, 640 x 480 60/50 fps (zoom/crop mode)
9 point AF
3.7 fps
3″ 1,040k pixel LCD

This camera blew some minds when it was announced – a DSLR capable of shooting real 1080p at variable frame rate, a 1MP LCD screen formatted to fit the images perfectly and an external audio jack – The reviews are backing up the early praise and 6 months after its release the camera can still be hard to find at list price. The 550D/T2i is an excellent value if you are a hobbyist and don’t care about the articulated LCD, the manual audio level options for video recording, top LCD or the flash commander of the 60D. A look at the T2i, 60D and 7D specs | Buy from Amazon

Canon 60D – Announced 8/26/10 – Available late september for $1399

ISO 100-6400 & 12800
1080p 30/25/24 fps, 720p 60/50 fps, 640 x 480 60/50 fps (zoom/crop mode)
9 point AF
5.3 fps
Articulated 3″ 1,040k pixel LCD

Image quality and video quality look to be identical to the the T2i and the 7D so what does $500 more get you? A slightly bigger body with a top LCD screen, manual audio controls that you don’t see until you move up to the 5d MII – a $2500 camera, slightly faster still FPS/ slightly bigger buffer, and remote flash trigger built in. Early hands-on reviews are NOT praising the ergonomics of this camera and feel that canon made some deliberate sacrifices to encourage more serious shooters to move up to the 7D. Buy the 60D if video is your thing and/or you want an excellent still shot camera but don’t need the weather sealing, more rugged body and larger still fps and buffer of the 7D. | Preorder from Amazon

Nikon D7000 – Announced 9/15 – $1199 (body only)

100-6400 & Hi-1=12800, Hi-2=25600
1920 x 1080p (24fps), 1280 x 720p (30, 25, 24fps), 640 x 424p (30, 25fps)
39 AF Points
6 fps
3″ 920k pixel LCD

Just announced D7000 looks to be an excellent DSLR and value. They have caught up on the Movie side and the new sensor and processor looks to offer fantastic high iso performance and metering all in a weather sealed, magnesium allow reinforced case and under $1200! Pre-order on Amazon

Nikon D300s – Announced 7/09 – $1500 (body only)

ISO 200-3200 & 6400
720p 24 fps
51 AF Points
7 fps
3″ 920k pixel LCD

The D300s is not a camera I have much experience with but on the photography side of things it is excellent – Nikon’s AF is fast and spot on, and although the high ISO maxes out at 6400 the quality of those higher ISO shots is exceptional. On the video side only 720p at 24fps and suffers from the rolling shutter effect more so than Canon models. Excellent handling and Nikon ergonomics. | Buy from Amazon

Canon 7D – Announced 11/2009 – $1500 (body only)

ISO 100-6400 & 12800
1080p 30/25/24 fps, 720p 60/50 fps, 640 x 480 60/50 fps (zoom/crop mode)
19 AF points
8 fps
100% viewfinder
3″ 920k pixel LCD

The best DSLR under $2000 today. Class leading high ISO performance, resolution and top notch controls. If you don’t need full frame or higher FPS than 8 this is the camera for you. Comparing the T2i and the 7D from a different perspective | Buy from Amazon *Note – I didn’t include non video DSLRs in this post but if you are looking to learning photography and not videography there are loads of excellent cameras still on the market including the Canon XSi, Nikon D60 and others. Used or new these DSLRs still take excellent photos and allow you to learn about exposure, aperture, shutter speed, ISO and everything else that applies perfectly when you are ready to upgrade to a newer DSLR. **Note – This guide is meant to be helpful but at the end of the day you should buy the body that works for you- the one that feels right in your hands. If you have any questions I would be happy to answer – use the chat on the right or find me on twitter @camerarec Buying from Amazon helps me to keep writing posts like this [fblike layout_style='standard' show_faces='false' verb='like' font='arial' color_scheme='dark']

T2i vs 7D: Not so similar, after all

Christina — Thu, 26 Aug 2010 22:45:54 +0000

Find this post helpful? Buy the T2i or the 7D from Amazon Why I am more certain than ever that I made the right decision in buying the 7D over the T2i If you want to skip my mumbo jumbo about how I came to buy the 7D click here. Otherwise, read on. With my new summer job as a wedding photographer assistant looming and a deep desire to upgrade from my trusty but very outdated Canon XT, this past April I found myself shopping for a shiny new DSLR. Now, as much as I consider myself to be a very impulsive buyer, I do take my time to research and study my options when making a big purchase. I am, after all, a broke college student and I need to make the most of my very limited funds. In an ideal world, I would have purchased the Canon 5DMKII, but this isn’t always an ideal world and I wanted to be realistic about what camera I could actually afford and how necessary its available features were. For one, I knew that I couldn’t afford anything above the 7D but I also felt like I needed to graduate from the Rebel line and move on to a much more serious and powerful camera. I read blog post after blog post and review after review that kept directing me towards the 550D (T2i) Reading the specs side by side for both cameras, it really did not seem like there was much of a difference. I didn’t know what I should do. What I really wanted was the 7D but at the same time I didn’t want to waste money on a camera that was “just as good” as the T2i. In the back of my mind I wondered about the price difference. Surely Canon cannot be just trying to fool their customers out of $800. Yet all blogs I had looked at for a comparison had post after post comparing them almost equally and photo after photo proving that their low-light capacity was almost identical. One even claimed the T2i was better than the 7D at ISO 3200 and above. After much consideration, and still very hesitant to do so, I decided to get the 7D. I figured if I expect to earn money taking photographs, then I should have more than just an entry-level camera. It is an investment, after all. After four months of owning my 7D and having used the 550D, I can’t believe I was so close to choosing the latter. Ladies and gents, they are NOT as similar as the blogs portray them to be. The Body Before making your purchase, I suggest holding both cameras in your hands. Look at them, examine them. The 7D feels much stronger, rugged and durable whereas the T2i – while still a huge improvement over previous rebels – feels very light and small. Even in my tiny girl hands. Now, some people may prefer a smaller, lighter camera depending on frequency of use and needs but the bodies of these two cameras are very different, and the 7D without a doubt feels to be of much higher quality in that respect. Controls and Ease of Use This is another area in which the 7D is a very clear winner. I absolutely love the way the dials, displays and controls were designed on the 7D. The 7D offers users two displays to control settings (such as aperture, shutter speed, ISO, etc…) One of the displays is located on top of the camera and users have the choice to display current settings on the main LCD display. The T2i only allows users to view their current settings through the main LCD display. Some may be OK with the main LCD as their display. I have tried it and I keep coming back to the smaller LCD at the top of my camera; I find that it helps me to be more efficient while shooting. I’ve also found that the scroll wheel on the back of the 7D is much, faster and easier to use as well as more efficient than the buttons on the T2i when browsing photos, changing shutter speed or focus points. I keep using the word “efficient” and this is because when photographing a wedding, efficiency is key in capturing moments. Weather Seal When I heard this at first, I laughed: “ummmm weather sealed?” That is silly and hardly worth much. I could probably take both cameras out during a misty day and they would be perfectly fine, right? sure. Now, would the T2i have survived being doused with a vase full of water? probably not. This is a true story, it happened to a friend of mine who accidentally doused his 7D with water and it survived. There is also the story of the photographer whose 7D burned up in a car accident. The camera may not have survived that but the memory card was left intact and at the end of the day equipment can be replaced but our data can’t. http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=915740 Wireless Flash To make beautiful portraits, you need beautiful light. While there are many who have mastered the use of natural light, a lot of us like to use off-camera flash for lighting our portraits. The 7D allows me to use an off camera flash without the need of cables or Pocket Wizards. Sure, it works much better indoors and it does not have the reach of a Pocket Wizard but for simple portraits of one or two people it does an excellent job and is very reliable. Buffer and High Speed Shooting In burst mode, my 7D takes about 30 (+/- 1) frames before there is a lag and the camera needs to buffer. In burst mode, the T2i takes about 5 frames before there is a lag and the camera needs to buffer. In high speed mode my 7D takes 21 frames before there is a lag (+/- 1) before there is a lag In high speed mode the T2i takes – wait, what high-speed mode? Battery and Charger Some people may find this very trivial, and it may be. To me, every part of my camera – even the charger – is important. The battery is the heart of a camera, it is what gives the camera its power to function; it needs to be reliable. When I saw the battery that came with the T2i, it reminded me of the batteries that come with point and shoot cameras: Flat, rectangular and not very durable. I have gone through 8-hour days of shooting without having to replace my 7D battery, try that with the T2i. The 7D battery is rated to up to 800 shots and the T2i is rated to 550, this is a pretty huge difference. The 7D also seems to be better at reporting the life of the battery as it is being used and charged. Let’s not forget that the battery for the 7D LP-E6 has an intelligent chip that tells it to stop charging once full, this gives the battery an overall longer life span, so you will not find yourself replacing these batteries that often. The T2i battery does not have this feature. Conclusion It is true that I am in a deep, loving relationship with my 7D. It cost me an arm and a leg but it was worth every penny. That being said, this camera is not for everyone and my opinions in this post are just that: opinions from an experienced user. Both of the cameras described in this article produce excellent and high-quality images. Notice that I didn’t talk about the sensor at all because that is not quite as important to me as are the rest of the features for which the 7D surpasses the T2i. Cameras do not take good pictures, people do. So depending on how serious you are about photography, make an educated decision about which of these to buy. If you are an amateur or hobbyist or have never owned a DSLR, you should get the T2i. If you are considering going pro, and are looking to upgrade, maybe you should get the 7D. The best way to find out which is right for you is to try each one out, as I said before go to a local retailer and hold both cameras in your hands. Just don’t think that these two cameras are as similar to each other as the internet says they are, they’re not. I hope this article helped. Happy shooting! Find this post helpful? Buy the T2i or the 7D from Amazon [fblike layout_style='standard' show_faces='false' verb='like' font='arial' color_scheme='dark']

Canon Elph 500 HS	Canon Elph 510 HS

Screen Size 3.2″ Touch Screen, 4.4x zoom (24-105mm), Stereo Audio	Screen Size 3.2″ Touch Screen , 12x zoom(28-336mm), Stereo audio recording
Buy from Amazon $199	Buy from Amazon $299